Tourist time in Astorga

Happy birthday to Kari Verhulst, and happy Father's Day to those who celebrate it. Special shout out to those who are missing their fathers today -- I see y'all, fellow children of loving fathers who we wish were still around.

Here's the altar at the Astorga cathedral where I lit a candle for all of us:

So, as the great philosopher Kenny Rogers tells us, you gotta know when to hold 'em and when to fold 'em. (OK, maybe that was songwriter Don Schlitz.) As I limped into Villar Mazarife on Friday afternoon, I told myself that it was time to take a break.

Gina, Ellie and I stayed at the charming Tio Pepe albergue on Friday evening, along with an Italian guy who we've run into before but none of us can remember where. Tio Pepe has a patio out back where you can hand wash your clothes or just sit in the sun, or, if you're as lucky as we are, your Camino friends Margaret and Annette (who were staying at the Albergue San Antonio a few streets over) will pop by with a pitcher of sangria. (Not shown: my feet in a bucket of ice.)

One of Ellie's goals for her trip was satisfied on Friday evening after dinner, when we watched the men's World Cup -- Spain versus Portugal -- in Tio Pepe's bar with a number of locals. The Italian guy was also in the room but barely watched because if you're Italian, who cares? Italy isn't in it this year.

On Saturday, Gina and Ellie walked to Astorga and I took the bus. (I keep telling myself that my feet are important to me.) We stayed at a huge albergue, and for the first time were separated: I arrived early enough to be put in a room with three other women around my age, and Gina and Ellie, who didn't get there until after 4 pm (God, what a walk they had), were put together in a bigger room with dozens of bunks. 

So, a word about my roommates last night: The woman in the bunk beneath me snored like a freight train. I was sitting up in my bed, and across from me, Brigit, a German woman who is on her fourth week on the Camino, was also sitting up. We looked at each other and Brigit said, "That is unbelievable." I said, "I've never heard anything like it before. I don't think the earplugs will help."

Brigit and I had only spoken briefly earlier that day. We introduced ourselves, and said how long we'd be on the Camino, etc. She is taking her sweet time if this is already her fourth week. She was attaching the baggage shipment tag to her backpack as we spoke. I said, "Oh, so you're doing that? It's quite a service." She said with a smile, "I am TOO OLD to carry this thing every day. [She's got to be about my age.] And there is NO WAY I will carry it over the mountains that are coming up. It is well worth five euros to send it along."

So, another version of the Camino. What would the pilgrims from 1,000 years ago think of us now? 

Now it is Sunday and I am in Astorga on my own. Gina and Ellie had a very long walk today (they left the albergue at 6 am), and will have the most grueling hike of the whole trip tomorrow. I am satisfied to miss out. Tomorrow afternoon (Monday) I will take the train to the next town and will start walking again on Tuesday.

Like Burgos and Leon, Astorga is also a lovely place to visit. Here's one thing I had not expected about this trip (though it should have been no surprise): Spain is fabulous. It is beautiful and interesting and I've so appreciated the chance to see it more closely.

My lodging tonight is at a exceptionally non-Camino-esque hotel (it was the only one available, I swear!); I had to entertain myself this morning before the room was available. I visited the Gaudi-designed Bishop's Palace -- muy impressive -- and then went to Mass in the super old cathedral.

It was fitting on Father's Day that I was able to watch this little boy love all over his grandfather -- he could not leave the guy alone. Kept holding his hand, and wrapping his arms around Abeulo's leg every time we stood. Abuelo put up with his grandson's affections with patience.

I know I've posted some beer pics, but here's a food one: This is the standard mixed salad (ensalada mixta), served everywhere. It includes asparagus and tuna and eggs:

I think I've eaten 10 of these in the past two weeks. This is tonight's dinner along with a four-cheese pizza at a pizzeria around the corner from the fancy hotel where I'm staying where THE WIFI DOES NOT WORK. (A profoundly non-Camino thing to fret about. This dependence on wifi is despicable.)

Time for me to get back to the fancy wifi-less hotel to prop my feet up and to sleep in tomorrow (that is, to not be moved out by the albergues' 8 am exit time).

Wish Ellie and Gina good luck tomorrow -- it will be the hardest climb. At the top of the mountain is the Iron Cross, where pilgrims are invited to leave a rock or stone from their home that signifies their burdens.

It's sort of prescient that I totally forgot about this and didn't bring a rock, like I subconsciously knew I wouldn't be doing it.

Apologies, readers, for my lack of deep philosophizing about this. Maybe it will come to me in the next few weeks or months.

Edited to add one more photo from the Astorga cathedral: Jesus kicking the money changers out of the Temple is one of my favorite Jesuses: