Skip to main content

One week down! A night in Belorado

Y'all, spare a prayer for my feet. They are super unhappy.


Days without injury: 7. But does this count when I'd just as soon cut off my feet?

No post yesterday because the wifi at the Cistercian sisters' albergue was pretty weak.

Yesterday we started off in Azofra and zipped through to Santo Domingo, arriving right before the albergue opened at noon. It is an interesting spot, serving as a pilgrim hostel since the 1700s ... And it has retained much of the original decor: wooden beams, plaster walls, and uneven floors.

After we checked in, Gina wandered a bit while I rested, then I managed to rouse myself enough to walk around with her. We visited the cathedral (age: super old) where a rooster and hen live full-time. Long story. Pope Clement VI allowed it in 1350, and the church has kept up the tradition since then.





We sat outside and had beer, patatas fritas, calamari and queso, then went to vespers with the cloistered Cistercian community. Not like hearing the Dominicans of the St. Cecilia convent but whatever, it was an experience. Quick dinner with new friends Kathy and Jeff, then we went to Mass back at the Cathedral (where the chickens live), and then headed back to the albergue because the doors lock at 10 pm.

The albergue has 33 beds spread across two floor; Gina and I were fortunate to have beds in a triple room, rather than in one of the rooms with multiple bunks. Our roommate was Isabel, a recent college graduate from Ireland, who is walking the Camino by herself. She was thrilled to have a bed in a room with just two other people, and to not be on an upper bunk for once. Her feet are mangled; she is miserable from all the blisters. But she plans to press on, like all the others we have met.

Today we left Santo Domingo around 7:45; we stopped around 9:30 for breakfast (cafe con leche, toast and juice) at a very cute and apparently new food truck. Rain started around 12 pm, as we were leaving the town of Viloria de la Rioja. I've posted a few photos from our stop -- a bunch of boys were dressed in some sort of traditional costume. We never learned what the ceremony was, unfortunately. In one photo, you can see two pilgrims in the forefront sitting at a picnic table. They are a man and woman, from China, I believe. We've seen them two or three days.

The rain continued until the town of Vilamayor del Rio, where we caught up with Kathy and Jeff and had lunch at the very nice Restaurante Casa Leon with its friendly Romanian waiter who assumed I was Irish.

I was pretty much done with life at this point, so I took a 10-minute taxi ride to Belorado while Gina walked the final 4.8 kilometers in a little over an hour in the rain. I was ready for a hotel with a private bath and a soft bed, so we're here tonight at Hotel Belorado. We've just had a nice dinner and the waiter/innkeeper has given me a bag of ice for my feet.

One week down! We're looking forward to seeing Ellie Walsh on Thursday in Leon.





Today is Rose Berger's birthday, so it's her day; Gina and I dedicated yesterday to Jack McKenzie, on what would have been his 71st birthday.


Comments

  1. Paging Dr. Scholl! Have you thought of trying an over-the-counter shoe insert?
    (Sorry for being helpy! I'm worried!)
    Otherwise, I'm enjoying reading about all of this.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Gracias ... Yeah, I’ve bought some heel inserts. I’ve asked Ellie to bring KT tape (?) which I’ve been told could help. A person could set up a foot care booth at any point along the Camino and make some bucks.

      Delete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Pax Christi USA, 1972–2022: The evolving Catholic peace movement in the United States

Written for the American Catholic Studies Journal, vol. 133, no. 4 (Winter 2022). Pax Christi USA, 1972–2022: The evolving Catholic peace movement in the United States Judy Coode Judy Coode is the incoming communications director for Pax Christi USA. Since 2016, she served as the project coordinator of the Catholic Nonviolence Initiative, a project of Pax Christi International; she previously worked 20 years with the Maryknoll Office for Global Concerns. For further comment please contact the author: jlcoode@gmail.com. In early August 2022, more than 300 people gathered at a hotel in Northern Virginia to celebrate 50 years of Pax Christi USA and Catholic peacemaking in the United States. The weekend included workshops on the Doctrine of Discovery, the U.S. military budget, justice for Palestinians, the nuclear weapons treaty, and Thomas Merton, to name only a few. The conference space was decorated with peace cranes, doz...

Breaking bread, the crust of companionship

 I was grateful to be asked by the Dorothy Day Guild to write this reflection on how Dorothy Day has affected my work. It was published in the June 2023 issue of the Guild’s newsletter. Breaking bread, the crust of companionship Communications director for Pax Christi USA  Judy Coode  reflects on the persistent presence of Dorothy Day in her life. From her Facebook page after college where she immediately placed a signature quote to her office now in Washington D.C. 20 years later, Dorothy is a staple in her efforts to fight “this filthy, rotten system.” It’s 2007. I’m creating an account on Facebook, the social media platform that recently opened itself to people who are not active university students. (At this point, it has been almost 20 years since I graduated from college.) I fill in the contact information—not everything, but some basics—and add a profile photo. My personal page offers a space to include a favorite quote. I know exactly which one I will use. I do n...

The gentle strength of nonviolent witness

Originally published on the Pax Christi International Peace Stories blog, May 8, 2021 On January 6, [2021] many watched in horror as thousands of people stormed the U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C. in a furious, chaotic, and deeply misguided attempt to nullify the November 2020 election of Joe Biden as president of the United States. The insurrectionists broke windows and furniture, swarmed offices, menaced members of Congress and their staff, stole property and inflicted a sense of terror on those who work in and near the U.S. Capitol. In the aftermath, five people were dead, at least 140 injured, and unknown more were traumatized. The January 6 attack was violent: in attitude, language, action, and result. Rather than stabilizing our democracy it has painfully accelerated social divisions. The United States has a history and culture of nonviolent demonstrations, most of which are peaceful. As the nation’s seat of power, Washington, D.C. is accustomed to protestors, both ...